Recommended Kerosene Lanterns

Dietz Comet kerosene lantern (this one from 1952) – the official lantern of the Boy Scouts of America. My favorite camping lantern!

Cabin or camp; moor or mountain; paddle or pack trail, some lantern models serve certain purposes better than others.  For traditional camping, I prefer “short globe” lanterns and one model – the Dietz #50 Comet, is my favorite.  Here is why I like ‘em and how they differ from other kerosene lanterns.

From their introduction, tubular lanterns from all makers used tall teardrop shaped globes.  This globe shape has the advantage of creating good draft, which results in producing a tall flame by pulling the flame up with the exhausted air.  All things being equal, a tall flame is brighter than a short flame of the same width (flame width is determined by the width of the flat wick).  A tall globe also provides a large glass area and so, creates a relatively large amount of illumination for the overall size of the lantern.

Globes remained unchanged until 1912 when the short globe style lantern was introduced.  The most obvious benefit of the short globe style is that it results in a shorter and more compact lantern, an important consideration when camping as it takes up less pack space.  There is also less glass area and thus, less chance of globe breakage.  Still, short globed lanterns have their downsides.  For one, they generally aren’t as bright.  A quick check of Kirkman lanterns shows that tall globed models average about 12 candle power while short globed models average just over 9 candle power (two short globed models, the Dietz #90 D-Lite and #8 Air Pilot lanterns both produce 12-14 candle power with a 7/8” wide wick).  This difference would be most troublesome when using the lantern for interior lighting (where I suspect you would want maximum brightness) and/or any kind of use at higher elevations.  According to Woody Kirkman (FAQ page) the “tall profile of the W.T. Kirkman Champion or the Dietz Blizzard lanterns (tall globe models) provides additional draft that helps compensate for the lack of oxygen at higher elevations.  These lantern models will burn brighter than the “short globe” lanterns such as the D-Lite or Air Pilot, especially at elevations above 5000′.” (“Copyrighted Text by W.T. Kirkman Used With Permission, Courtesy of “)

Yet, even with these disadvantages, I like the short globed lanterns best.  To me, a tall globed lantern says barn lamp but a short globed lantern says camp and field lamp – and that’s what we’re interested in (all of the WWII era military kerosene lanterns I’ve seen are short globed types).  To be faithful to turn-of-the-century camping, you’d have to use a tall globe lantern as short globed models hadn’t been invented yet.  And even after their introduction they must not have caught on immediately as all of the camp photographs of kerosene lanterns I’ve seen up through WWI have been of tall globed models (and most of those are curiously hot blast lanterns).  Short globed tubular lanterns were not regularly used in the field till much later, and were not specifically marketed for camping in the U.S. until the U. S. introduction of the Dietz Comet after WWII.

Dietz Comet recommendation from “First Camping Trip” by C. B. Colby (1955), Coward-McCann Publishing NY

The Dietz Comet was first marketed as an export model in 1934 and after WWII, as a low cost “economy” lantern in the States.  As Dietz stated on the box – “A practical Dietz lantern at the price of a toy”.  Just over 8 inches high, the Comet was the smallest cold blast lantern ever manufactured by Dietz.  Using a 3/8 inch wick, it produces about 4 candle power of illumination.  Shortly after its U.S. unveiling the Comet was chosen as the “Official” lantern of the Boy Scouts of America (see Boy’s Life ad here).  Comets were popular and were produced in very large numbers.  Interestingly, though intended as a low cost product, some of the the parts were asymmetrical, which made the lantern expensive to manufacture.  As a result, Dietz wanted to end production of the lantern decades before they actually stopped making it.  Only the extreme popularity of the Comet forestalled its end just a few years ago (the company has effectively ended production by requiring minimum orders of 10,000 units).

Because Comets were intended to be a low priced item, their pre-war tin plate finish was scaled back to the less rust inhibiting terne plating used for the rest of the production run (terne plate is an inexpensive alloy of tin and lead).  As the terne plate was judged not protective enough, Dietz painted over the plating.  Bright red was used for nearly the entire production run but Comets were also painted grey, blue and forest green at different times.

A boy’s first camp is lit by the Dietz Comet, from “First Camping Trip” by C. B. Colby (1955), Coward-McCann Publishing NY (colorization of illustrations for enhanced viewing by yours truly.)

If you want a truly appropriate camping lantern you can often find original Comets on eBay or Craigslist.  In my experience, about half of the ones described as “excellent” end up with issues that must be addressed before use: cracked fuel filler necks, leaking tanks etc.  So, if you don’t want to deal with these problems make sure to ask the seller if the lantern has been tested and suffers from any corrosion beyond surface rust, has a leaky tank (at the bottom crimp), cracked fuel filler, or any other flaw (if you’re handy, these minor problems can be repaired).  If the lantern works, don’t worry too much about how the finish looks.  It can be easily cleaned of all gunk, grime, rust and old paint by following the instructions for cleaning a rusty tubular lantern, under the “Soda Ash and Battery Charger Method” on Kirkman’s website (half-way down the page).  You’ll end up with a perfectly cleaned, bare metal finish with the patina intact.  The lantern can then be repainted or protected by being rubbed occasionally with light machine oil or Briwax brand creamed beeswax.

Old red Comet lantern (shown at top of page) after restoration using Kirkman’s soda ash and battery charger method.


Beautiful new-old-stock Comet lantern from the 1950’s


You could also buy a brand new Comet.  Dietz began listing the Comet in their product line in 2013, for the first time in a number of years.  I see that Kirkman Lanterns is selling them again (see my recent post on the subject).  There are other Comet-sized  clones on the market but BEWARE!  These are poor quality Asian-made lanterns of flimsy construction (some are even made from recycled tuna cans – nothing like a genuine Comet).  And none use strong, heat resistant glass globes. The only high quality Comet clone I know of, the Petromax hl 1 Storm Lantern appears to have been discontinued.



No other lantern is as compact as the Comet.  Other recommendations include the Feuerhand Model #276 “Baby Special” lantern.  At 10 inches high and fitted with a 1/2″ wick, the Feuerhand is larger and brighter than the Comet, producing 7 candle power.  The 276 is available in both painted and tin plated finishes,  the Feuerhand is a beautifully made historic model as it dates from the early 1930s.  These German beauties cost nearly double that of the Asian-made Dietz products.



The inexpensive Dietz Original #76 is another great camping lantern.  Introduced in 1978 to replace the Comet, the Original #76 is very similar to the Feuerhand #276 (perhaps that is why it’s called the 76?).  These lanterns are available in painted ($11.00), tin plate (approx $16.00) and rustproof solid brass (about $35.00) finishes.   Though not commonly found, the Dietz #78 Mars lantern is another good choice.  The Mars is a #76 with a larger fount.

For anyone living in or near Oklahoma City, OK, Nix Lumber & Hardware (5117 NW 10th Street, Ph: 405-942-5561) is a Dietz lantern dealer.  Nix Lumber is an old fashioned store.  They carry all manner of galvanized wash tubs and pails, new wash boards, cast iron pot-bellied wood stoves, and other esoterica. In addition to the lanterns, Nix carries replacement wicks, globes and lamp oil.  I LOVE the place.

Using a Kerosene Lantern ~

To fuel these lanterns you MUST use only clear, unscented kerosene or “clear lamp oil” (such as Aladdin or Lamplight brand “Medallion”).  Note that in Europe kerosene is called paraffin.  But in this country, paraffin refers to solid or liquid paraffin wax.  At every store where I’ve seen tubular kerosene lanterns for sale, they are marketed along with some sort of liquid paraffin wax fuel.  DO NOT USE LIQUID PARAFFIN WAX IN A TUBULAR KEROSENE LANTERN!!!  For more information on this please read Kirkman’s FAQ page here.

Note also that tubular lanterns do not have sealed tanks.  Everything is crimped in place.  So if overfilled or tilted, they will leak like a sieve.  Do not fill the fount above the top of the air chamber (about 85% full according to Dietz) or fuel can spill into the chamber where it will leak out the side tube joint, giving the impression that the lantern is leaking (modern lanterns usually have a sticker on the outside of the tank warning you of the maximum fill line).  Of course lanterns that are tipped too far over will also leak out of the burner socket as that is a hole.  When camping, you must always keep the lantern in an upright position and empty any remaining fuel (back into your fuel bottle) before packing the lamp away for transport.

Improving lantern performance ~

Our knowledge of wick lamp technology declined rapidly after rural electrical service was established in America.  Except for perhaps Amish or similar communities, wick lamps are no longer used on a daily basis and the regular routine of trimming wicks, filling founts, cleaning the globe, and other lamp maintenance disappeared.  In order to gain the best performance from a kerosene lantern, you should familiarize yourself with these skills.  As a first step (1) – Learn to select the right fuel – clear, non-dyed, unscented high-grade kerosene (K-1) or clear lamp oil (Aladdin or Medallion).  NO paraffin, NO red dyed kerosene, NO scented lamp oil, NO citronella oil, NO other kind of fuel!  (2) – do not leave kerosene in the lantern for long periods without using daily.  Kerosene will degrade as it slowly evaporates in the tank and this will clog the wick.  To store the lantern, pour out the kerosene, remove the burner and allow the wick to completely air dry – then reassemble before putting it away.  (3) – Before the first use or after storage, fill the tank with clean kerosene and allow at least 10 minutes for the wick to become saturated before lighting.  (4) – When using the lantern, do not allow the tank to burn dry.  I’ve seen a few forum posts stating that the Dietz lantern can be burned till every drop of fuel is spent, leaving the reservoir completely empty.  That may be true, but you should never allow a lantern to burn dry!  When the tank is full, the wick is charred ever so slightly when the flame is burning.  It is the vapor from the fuel that you are actually burning – not the wick.  If you burn the tank dry, the wick begins to burn in earnest and is consumed at a rapid rate.  Wicks will last a lot longer if you put the lantern out before the tank empties.  (5) – Learn to properly trim and adjust the wick.  The wick should be trimmed as required to maintain a smooth edge.  If a new wick has a frayed end or any loose threads trim it back to a smooth edge before lighting.  To relight a wick, pinch off any charred crust before use.  Eventually the wick will develop a jagged edge that needs to be trimmed back to an even edge again.  See here for an illuminating look (no pun intended) at how this little chore can really boost lantern performance.  (6) – Learn to adjust the wick height and use the lantern.  This copy of the Feuerhand lantern instructions, featured on the Blue Lantern website shows you how it’s done.  In addition, the Dietz lantern instructions include the following recommendations:

  1. After the wick is lit, it should be adjusted to no more than 1/16th inch above the flame plate.
  2. As the lantern warms to operating temperature, the flame will increase in size.
  3. Five minutes after lighting (warming up), the fame may be adjusted to provide maximum illumination.
  4. If the wick is set too high, smoking will occur, which means soot will be deposited on the globe.

Transporting the lantern ~

I carry my fuel in a Sigg “heritage” vintage-style water bottle.  I pack the lantern by first wrapping a piece of soft wool batting around the globe (between the globe and air tubes) and then wrapping the whole thing in a larger piece of wool batting and placing the padded lantern in a waxed cotton stuff sack.

Bring along one of these beautiful, historic lanterns on your next traditional trip and experience a cheery night camp that glows with soft light.  I know you’ll quickly become a tubular kerosene lantern aficionado.

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20 Responses to “Recommended Kerosene Lanterns”

  1. Vasya Says:

    Feuerhand # 275 does have a sealed tank, it has nothing in common with so popular Dietz and Champion type of lanterns that sold here in States. Those types are leaky all over, however German made Feurhand just doesn’t leak at all.

  2. Woodser Says:


    I have to disagree. Feuerhand lanterns are beautifully made but are constructed in the same manner as the original nineteenth century lanterns made by Dietz. As Woody Kirkman notes: “…all tubular lanterns made today that aren’t made by Dietz, are copies of lanterns made by Dietz, or based on Dietz models or now lapsed Dietz patents.”

    Feuerhand lanterns, like all tubular lanterns have a burner socket and an air chamber. If the tank is overfilled, into the air chamber, Feuerhand lanterns will leak out of the crimped air tube joints the same as any other lantern. The Feuerhand rising cone burners are indistinguishable from Dietz burners and have no provision for sealing around the wick. If a Feuerhand lantern is tilted too far over it will leak through the burner as well.

    I believe that Feuerhand lanterns are treated with a sealer to prevent leakage from the crimped joint where the bottom of the tank is attached. This is a good thing and an extra step that, as far as I know, Dietz does not do. Feuerhand lanterns are also made to a very high standard and are superbly made. However, Dietz lanterns are not significantly susceptible to tank leakage anyway. According to Woody Kirkman, he has to replace only one or two lanterns a year, out of several thousand, due to leakage. Some years he doesn’t have any that leak.

    Kirkman used to sell Feuerhand lanterns and when I asked him whether they were made with some kind of totally leakproof construction, he said: “There is nothing special about their construction that would make them 100% leak-proof.”

  3. JTS Says:

    Very interesting article. I would definitely prefer the traditional style lantern to any modern, battery operated option. One more thing on my wishlist.

  4. Terry Says:

    I’d imagine you’re aware, but just in case:
    WT Kirkman is offering the Comet for sale again, in all three colors you mentioned, as well as tin plate. Additionally they have a WTK globe made for the Comet. Im sure the Dietz is a good product, but the glass quality/thickness in the Champions is fantastic. If I pick up a Comet, I will definitely get a WTK globe to go with it.

  5. Brent Payne Says:

    I knew that Dietz was making the Comet again and wondered when Woody Kirkman would stock some again. I agree that the Kirkman lanterns come with much better globes and would pay extra for a globe like those on the Champion lantern. A call to W.T. Kirkman confirmed that their Comet replacement globes are produced from much heavier glass than the standard Dietz globes. I would highly recommend that anyone buying a new Comet lantern order a W.T. Kirkman replacement globe as an essential upgrade.

  6. Rob Says:

    Thanks for your review, I bought a Feuerhand myself though I have some questions about it. Is it normal it has paint chipping on the chimney (specifically the part that goes up and down when lighting the wick)? And is the top (with the little hanger) supposed to be loose?

  7. Brent Payne Says:

    All kerosene tubular lanterns, including the Feuerhand, will quickly lose much of the paint on the chimney as it is rubbed off when the globe is raised or lowered. So, if the paint was chipped when new, don’t worry, because it will be wear off anyway. And yes, the chimney top will wiggle around on all brands of lanterns. Tubular lanterns are constructed by crimping the parts together, so there are no welded or brazed seams to be found anywhere. On the chimney cap, four little tabs are simply crimped over to hold it in place, so the cap wiggle around.

    Note that no tubular lantern brand offers a model in stainless steel and unless a lantern is made of solid brass, rust is your lantern’s chief enemy. You can rub the chimney (or whole thing) with oil or “Briwax” creamed beeswax occasionally to prevent rust. I’ve done both and have been satisfied but am thinking about experimenting with the new “NeverWet” spray by Rust-Oleum.

    Brent Payne

  8. Eric Says:

    Thanks for this helpful article. I just received a Feuerhand “baby special” and have been excited to try it. One question; after some trouble finding the appropriate fuel, I ended up with “lamp oil” that probably isn’t kerosene. I’m using the lantern indoors so I thought I’d give it a try. Initial tests have shown that I have to turn the wick up every few minutes. I understand this is likely a problem with using an incorrect fuel. My question is how often should you have to adjust the wick when properly set up?

    Thanks again for the article!


  9. Brent Payne Says:


    You must be using some fuel other than Standard Lamp Oil. This fuel is NOT the lamp oil usually sold in stores that is actually liquid paraffin (candle wax), which will clog a kerosene lantern wick smaller than 5/8″ wide (a Feuerhand #276 “Super Baby” uses a 1/2″ Wick). Standard Lamp Oil is sold under the names of Crown, Florasense (sold by Wal-Mart), Lamp Light Farms Medallion Lamp Oil, and Aladdin Lamp Oil (made for Aladdin lamps and sold by Aladdin lamp dealers. You can also safely use a kerosene substitute such as Klean-Heat (made by W.M. Barr) but it will give off a stronger smell than the lamp oils.

    You should not have to turn the wick up except for its being shortened by trimming, which I do weekly or thereabouts. When lighting a lantern, I turn the wick up for a few minutes until the lantern warms up and then turn it down and it will burn all night with no problem. In fact, I often hang lanterns outside and burn them all night during the winter when darkness falls much earlier. I have often re-lighted the lantern the following evening without trimming the wick or raising it at all except for the warm up – and then back down for long term burning.

    If you have used an incorrect fuel, you should purchase some replacement wicks and replace the one you are now using with a fresh wick. Rinse the tank out with fresh standard lamp oil before filling it back up. I like and use the Wal-Mart Florasense Lamp Oil as it is inexpensive and burn beautifully. My favorite is Lamp Light Farms Medallion Oil but it is much more expensive.

    Good luck and let me know how things work out with your lantern.


  10. Terry Says:

    Not sure on your location. I get kerosene at filling stations. Normally it’s a pump off to the side that you have to peeps for, but kerosene heaters are still pretty common in Ohio.

    Normal wick adjustment is probably just once after five minutes or so. After the wick and generator assembly get warmed up they warm the fuel a bit and it flows quicker. After you get to know your lantern a bit you’ll figure out where to start it to have to end up at a good height without adjustment.

    I regularly light my lantern with the wick set a little low knowing it will warm up to a higher flame. I’ve lit it and left the wick untouched for 40 hours before with a WT Kirkman set with a reasonable flame.

  11. Terry Says:

    Depending on your lantern purpose I don’t really care for “lamp oil”. I use mine outside 99% of the time, and the lamp oil gels when it gets real cold. Below 20 degrees F it barely stays lit.

    I’ve had the clear kero burning with no problems below 5. It does smell a bit more though.

  12. Brent Payne Says:

    Good point! Kerosene does burn better in truly cold weather!

  13. Alan McMichael Says:

    I have just discovered your blog and sincerely hope you are still blogging. Your articles are very well written and illustrated, and you are covering all the things I love!

    When I was a kid in the 1960s, whenever we would go camping my father or someone would always fire up a Coleman lantern. I was convinced those things were going to explode so I stayed away from them! In college in the ’70s, my roommate bought an Aladdin kerosene lantern but we never mastered it and we kept breaking the globe.

    I’m in my 60s now and am re-discovering the things of my youth. I started by buying a couple of vintage Coleman lanterns and learning how to operate them without blowing myself up. Then I bought a USA made Dietz Little Wizard and have been enjoying the soft, quiet light it provides.

    Thanks for a great blog.

  14. Anne M Says:

    Dudley Cook, the author of “The Ax Book” was an amazing man and my grandfather. He was always working in his workshop when I would visit him as a young girl. He was more than that though. So many amazing stories about his life and family.

  15. michael shawn kendall Says:

    Hello, I have a couple dozen lanterns and needed to warm up to the 7/8 inch wide wicks. The 5/8, 1/2, 3/8 can be cut straight across without any issues for best flame. At first my favorite lanterns were the Feuerhand 276 (galvanized), Dietz 76 (galvanized) and Dietz Little Wizard large tank (#1) or equivalent Kirkman Little Wizard large tank. This was because my problems with the 7/8 wick. I tried cut straight across, nipping corners and concave which are the three main ways people claim to cut. Then I got a tiny self healing hobby cutting mat and a new razor took a 6.5 inch diameter plate and cut a slightly concave (lower in center of wick) to get a near perfect tall flame whereas before the center was too high because the very wide wick. Then I got a 11.95 button hole key hole kit off ebay which is for cutting denim with a rubber mallet. I use the straight sharp chisel to cut a perfect wick on 5/8 down and do the same on 7/8 but cut with the tiny 1/8 hole chisel a small hole in the center giving me a perfect flame on 7/8. The kirkman uses brass wick tubes making less flicker and steady flame. Also, the Kirkman Champion has very subtle improvements giving a wonderful flame as I sit here and type with my Kirkman Champion no. 2 next to me I might say it is now one of my favorites. For leaking tanks if it is galvanized I just solder the lower seam and it looks great and better than tank sealant. If painted (even the cheap chinese ones) I take two part marine epoxy and seal everything where there is a crimped seam and then repaint. Beware of wick size on Chinese knock off lanterns. They are metric (8mm, 10mm, 11.2mm, 15mm, 20mm) and if a US Dietz type wick is used on the smaller lanterns it will be too big and bind or too small and let allot of air escape by the sides of the wick on the wick tube (bad). So….Kirkman is king on 5/8 and bigger. Feuerhand and Dietz 76 are king on 1/2. Only the Comet in 3/8 and there is a cheap Chinese lantern in 5/16 (8mm) that is even tinier to rival the old Feuerhand Atomic that is no longer made. If you can afford the kerosene to burn then go ahead with the Kirkman Chapion no. 2 you can’t lose. If you need to save fuel and can get by with less light and need portability the Feuerhand is made in Germany and worth the extra money. Best regards, Mike

  16. Tommy Says:

    I am a lantern collector and have gained some wisdom concerning kerosene lanterns. The strong smell from a burning a lantern can be singnificantly reduced by lighting and extinguishing the flame OUTSIDE.
    Use clean, good quality fuel, as Woody Kirkman, recommends, keep your wicks trimmed and follow SAFE lantern burning practices.

  17. Jamie G Says:

    Thanks for these wonderful posts! I, too, have been curious about how the hot blast lantern seemed to persist in usage well into the 20th century, when one would think that the cold blast lantern’s performance would have rendered it obsolete by the 1890s. The efficiency argument doesn’t seem to hold up, when you consider the light output. Comparing the numbers from the W. T. Kirkman site, we can compare the hot-blast Monarch to the much tinier cold-blast Original 76:

    Monarch: 5 candlepower, 14oz/23hrs = 0.6 oz/hr
    Original #76: 7 candlepower, 8oz/11hr = .72 oz/hr
    The #76 has slightly more fuel usage, but 40% more candlepower.
    Of course these are all rounded numbers, but the tiny 10 1/2″ cold blast is clearly in the same ballpark as the 13 1/2″ hot blast.

    Looking at the cute little lantern that’s the subject of this page:
    Comet: 4 candlepower, 7oz/12hrs = .58 oz/hr
    So, roughly the same fuel usage as the big Monarch, a little less brightness, but it’s a toy-like 8 1/2″ tall.

    What did Dietz say when it was marketing these? Interestingly, on the cover page for this Dietz brochure from the 1920s, the only advantage they list is lower cost.
    “Where maximum lighting power is desired always select a Dietz Cold Blast Lantern. Where strong light is not essential a Hot Blast Lantern will give equally faithful service at somewhat lower cost.”

    I’ve seen an old Dietz catalog that indeed lists the hot blast lanterns at significantly lower prices. I can see how the cold blast lantern, with all that spring-loaded chimney business, would be more expensive to manufacture. Today’s hot blast survivor, the Monarch, isn’t particularly cheap, but the situation is very different now.

    People will also say that the recirculating nature of the hot blast makes it more suitable for use indoors, but I haven’t heard any first hand affirmations of that claim, nor have I seen it mentioned in any contemporary Dietz materials. You would think that if they could market them as “better for indoors”, they would, right?

    So, when we see people in the early 20th century using a hot blast lantern, maybe they’re just saving some money…or maybe they’re engaging in some of the same nostalgia that has us enjoying these lanterns today.

  18. Tyler London Says:

    The Dietz #50 Comet is functionally identical to the Feuerhand #175 Superbaby. (Fount capacity? Wick size?) The Dietz Original #76 is functionally identical to the Feuerhand #275 Baby. The Dietz #78 Mars is very similar to the Fuerhand #276 Baby Special but holds one more ounce of fuel. The 76/276 thing is just a coincidence, as the models don’t exactly match.

    If one can find the Dietz models in galvanized, or (even better) brass versions, they could get a Feuerhand competitor for much less. The 175 Superbaby model especially is selling for high dollar these days as it is fairly desireable and hasn’t been made in decades. The only thing I’m uncertain about is the quality of glass Dietz uses. They claim it is “Heat treated” but don’t elaborate. Feuerhand says outright their glass will survive the thermal shock of snow and rain.

    If one wants the smallest lantern possible and has $200 to spend, the Feuerhand Atom is still easy to find used. I’ll say I’ve had good luck with all of the Chinese lanterns I’ve had. Their glass has been as thick as my Feuerhands though probably not best treated or shock resistant. For me their main downside is rust, the same as regulsr Dietz. The humidity of San Antonio demands as much corrosion resistance as possible, so I’m stuck having to pay top dollar for any lantern built to last.

  19. Wade nix Says:

    I have a dietz comet lantern with H-12 on the glass bowl. This one has a small bulb and uses
    batteries. Would you have any idea how old it might be?

  20. Tommy Says:

    Hi Wade! The battery powered Dietz Comet was made as a child’s toy in the 1950’s. The “H12” on the globe is an indication of the globe manufacturer and the production run. The downside of the battery Comet is the easily lost bottom “door” for the battery compartment. I’m almost 70 and still play with mine!

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